Almaty is situated in the east-southern part of Republic, on the northern part of Tian-Shan mountains, on the altitude of 600-900 meters above sea level. The highest point in the nearest Almaty area is peak Talgar (4973 above sea level).
Practically every city has its own symbol. Something, which makes the city special page in our memory. For Moscow it is Kremlin, for Paris it is Eiffel Tower and Niva for Saint-Petersburg. What does mark out Almaty from the thousands of other cities? Palace of President? Hotel Kazakhstan? Television center? No! For Almaty it is the Zailliski Alatau mountains ("alatau" could be translated as "parti-coloured mountains"). Mountains play in life of the city and locals a very meaningful role. It could be felt by everybody who have been leaving Almaty. Wherever you find yourself willy-nilly begin seeking for mountain peaks. Mountain ranges impart to climate the caressing tenderness, although only in 50 kilometres northwards the Pribalkhash desert sand-hills show the summer unbearable sultriness and winter severe frosts. Mountains merit to make a special acquaintance with them and so we decided to narrate about some magnificent suburbs of city.
This acquaintance could be started from the trip by cable-way to Kok-Tube summit (it was called till 60-ies as Virigina), whose wagon delivers passengers from Republic Palace (Dostyk Ave., cross-road of Abai Ave.) to the top during some minutes. It's altitude above sea level is 1130 meters. In 1997 the cable way will meet its 30-ies anniversary. The cable way stretches above the part of "old city", which is called "compote". This region was called in this way because of street names. Rising in cable way wagon higher and higher above the city, you may see, like in ethnographic museum, the way of life of locals. There is a television 350 meter tower on Kok-Tube slope. If count from sea level it's the highest television tower in the world! And note that it stands in seismicity zone.
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Small Almaty Gorge
Asphalt ribbon of highway meanders in a picturesque Gorge, nearest to the city. This is a zone of houses of relaxation, sanatoriums and private estates, this is why the road is fenced in. There are 2 restaurants on the way to Medeo. At Butakovka area (terminal stop of bus No 29) followers of Parfiri Ivanov gather and take cold bath in mountainous river. Further by road an ecological post stands, where a special fee for thoroughfare to Medeo and foothills is being taken. It is being taken from the private cars.
Medeu tract
It had been called by name of nomad, whose aul was located there. Medeo is on the altitude of 1961 meters above sea level in 16 kilometers from the city center, even in city boundaries! To the right of Medeo dam Mokhnatka (Shaggy) mound (2278 meters) is situated. This name was given, because it covered with forest and looks from the city as shaggy mountain. Before the revolution there were an orthodox cave temple and small and secluded monastery, where monks lived. Having entered to the power, communists destroyed everything. Nowadays pilgrims go to cave and spring, conduct divine services there. You may reach Medeo by bus No. 6 or by commercial bus, which departs from bus station at Hotel Kazakstan (Dostyk Ave., cross-road of Kurmangazy St.). For drivers, who park there, it is a way of earning money, so they can deliver you to Medeo or even to Chimbulak. It is rather expensive. Medeo attracts not only by picturesque panorama, but also by high-mountainous skating-ring. Skating-ring works 9 months a year by weekends. Even in winter, skating there, one could obtain a nice sunburn. There is a skate rent service. If, owing to regular lack of electricity the skating ring might not work, do not be frustrated. Rise on the dam by more then 800 steps. It is neither Everest nor Fujiyama, but if go by foot, not fly by motor-car, the sensations from climbing are nearly the same. By the way, 21 of October of 1996 30 years passed from that day, when the unique explosion had made the dam. The height of dam is 93 meters. The other side of dam, on the way to Chimbulak, near the Gorelnik river a healing hot spring is located. The spring water has specific smell, usually it is not drunk. It is possible to take bath there, changing ice water of Gorelnik river with hot spring water. The temperature of water is 21 degrees above zero.
Chimbulak
Walk or drive further, along the road, striving by zigzags towards high-mountainous station Chimbulak. The distance from the dam to station is 4 kilometers. There is a hotel for skiers and 1500 meter cable way to Bolshoi (Big) Talgarski pass (3200), where 3000 meter ski route begins. On the pass a delightful view opens to your eyes. Almaty, the last reminder of civilization from one side and a majestic Gorge from other. This Gorge is called Levyi (Left) Talgar. Any time of the year it is possible to agree with servants of cable way and go to pass. It is very convenient, when you go to Levyi Talgar. You may go there (tent, foodstuff for two or more days would be helpful) by nice path, stretching down. There are some passes from Levyi Talgar leading back to Almaty, but you may return by the same route. If not to come by to Chimbulak and go further, through Gates of Tuyuksu, you will find yourself at Mynzhilki mountainous valley (3040 meters above sea level). Behind it two glaciers are located: Tuyuksy and Igly Tuyuksu. In the front of them marainal lakes could be found. They are not so big, but in mountain frame look great.
Big Almaty Lake
This mountainous lake is located in Bolshoe Almatinskoe Gorge (Big Almaty Gorge) rather high in the mountains (2505 meters above sea level). There is a road, but in case of desire you may walk by foot. You need buses number 27 or 93. They stop at the bus stop near intersection of Navoi Street and Al-Farabi Ave. Usually this route is very crowded, so it's better to come early. You need to come out at stop "Vtoraya Ges" and then walk along the road near 15 kilometers. It is rather long way, but the aim worth it. In winter time the lake freezes. In reminding time it shines from within by tender bluish-greenish light on the white peaks background. From the lake the road rises to Jusaly-Kezen pass, where station of space rays is located. The distance from the lake to station is 8 kilometers. Walking by the road you will meet the road forking (3 kilometers from the lake). There is an astronomic institute. Rooms for rent are available. Having agreed to heads of observatory one can look through telescopes on stars.
Charyn Canyons
This magnificent place looks like Californian canyons. Canyon is a narrow long gorge with steep slopes, on bottom of which a river flows. Sand rocks, thanks to wind and water diligence, esquire whimsical forms, reminding the gigantic idols, camels, frigates. You may judge about this place whimsicality on the names: 'Valley of castles', 'Devil's gorge', 'Gorge of witches', where the rocks grip path till the width of one elbow. At Charyn canyon one can see a saxaul grove. Every year on May holidays there, like to pilgrimage, come several hundreds of tourists. To reach canyons by yourself is rather difficult. It is located nearly in 200 kilometers in Chilik direction. The canyons are not seen from the highway, so it is necessary to drive through a stone desert for 15 kilometers. As soon as you reach them, you surely will be shocked. If not to know the right way, one can get lost. So it is better not to risk and contact to travel agencies. The trip could be made either by bus or helicopter. The best time for traveling is the beginning of spring.
Stone Flower
Those, who do not want to risk, but want to see canyon, may visit Kamennyi Tsvetok (Stone Flower) gorge. It is behind the dike on the way to Bolshoe Almatinskoe Lake by the right side of highway. The gorge is rather short and very easy to access. This canyon way called in this way because of unique combination of coloured rocks.
Afterword
The mountains are a zone like zone in Tarkovski's "Stalker", where nothing is stable and predictable. The situation is being changed all the time. So it is possible to say that one can not come in to the mountains twice. Although for many persons make it once is a problem. Try...
Good luck!
